2014年12月16日星期二

Deli-licious美味的熟食

原文请猛戳http://www.economist.com/news/britain/21636092-supermarkets-flounder-small-food-and-drink-retailers-are-booming-deli-licious

Boutique food shops小型食品商店

Deli-licious美味的熟食

As supermarkets flounder, small food and drink retailers are booming
大型超市生意不佳,小型食品,饮料零售店生意兴隆


Dec 13th 2014 | From the print edition


芝芝芝士

INVESTORS in Tesco, Britain’s largest supermarket chain, could be forgiven for weeping into their Christmas pud this month. On December 9th the retailer issued its fourth profit warning in five months, cutting its full-year trading forecast by almost a third. Shares plunged (again), topping off a dreadful year for the former darling of the City. Tesco’s only solace is that it is only doing marginally worse now than its direct competitors, such as Sainsbury’s and Morrison’s.

本月,英国最大的连锁超市——乐购的投资商们要是对着自己的圣诞布丁抹眼泪也情有可原。12月9日,乐购发布了五个月内的第四次利润警告,将全年的贸易预测减少了近1/3。股票再次暴跌,顾客曾经钟爱光顾的这所连锁店家今年很不景气。乐购唯一值得庆幸的是,塞恩斯伯里和莫里森超市这样的直接竞争对手,也好不到哪里。

There is no need for solace at the Keelham Farm Shop, on the outskirts of Bradford, however. Here it is mulled wine and treats all round, as Victoria Robertshaw, the co-owner, celebrates another fine year and big plans for the future. Founded in the early 1970s, Keelham was one of the country’s first modern farm shops, selling meat, vegetables and much else, but only from the family farm or from other local producers. Its growth has been spectacular.

布莱德福德郊区的克尔汉姆农贸商店就不需要这种慰藉了。商店内有热红酒和各种美食,合伙人维多利亚.罗伯特肖恩为商店又一年的红火生意而庆祝,并为来年制定计划。克尔汉姆农贸商店成立于70年代初期,是英国最早的农贸商店之一,销售肉类,蔬菜还有其他种类的农贸产品,都是从家庭农场或其他当地的生产地直接供给的。它的发展速度非常惊人。

In 2006, Keelham had a turnover of £2m, already large for a farm shop. Today that figure is over £11m, and achieved in one of the less prosperous parts of the country. Such is the demand that Ms Robertshaw is investing £4m next year in opening a much larger Keelham’s in Skipton, a nearby town. Her new outlet will also boast a cooking school and a café. Much of what it will sell, such as sausages, will be made on site.

2006年,克尔汉姆的营业额达到2百万欧元,这样的营业额对一个农贸商店来说已经很可观了。现在它的营业额是1100万欧元,而商店并非地处十分繁华的区域。随着顾客需求的增加,罗伯特肖恩投资了4百万欧元,准备在附近的小镇斯基普顿开设一家比克尔汉姆更大的农贸商店。这家新的批发商店还将设立一个烹饪学校和一个咖啡馆。市场上卖的香肠之类半成品也会当场制作。

The expansion of Keelham’s reflects the robust health of the country’s boutique food-and-drink business. There are about 4,000 such businesses today, and more are opening all the time. The National Farmers’ Retail and Markets Association, which represents about 300 farm shops, says that many members have reported a 5-10% increase in turnover this year.

克尔汉姆规模的扩大反应了这类食品、饮料商店的强势良性发展。如今这样的企业有4千多家,并且不断有新的商铺开张。代表约300家农贸商店的全国农贸零售市场协会称,不少会员今年公布的营业额有5%-10%的增加。

Some analysts expected the burgeoning sector of small food-and-drink companies to be decimated by the financial crash of 2008. Surely tasty treats from the local deli would be the first casualties as household budgets were slashed. In fact, the reverse has happened. The sector has not only survived, but prospered, partly due to the change in shopping habits provoked by that same recession.

一些分析师曾经预测,这些迅速发展的小型食品饮料公司会因2008年的金融困境而受创。家庭家用的减少势必会让本地市场上那些美味的熟食产品最先成为牺牲品,但实际情况却恰恰相反。农贸产业非但存活了下来,并且不断壮大,一部分原因是由于人们的购物习惯在这同一场金融危机中也改变了。

After 2008 many consumers started shopping at cheaper supermarkets, such as Aldi and Lidl. Customers also started buying in bulk online. 
However, in contrast to previous downturns, says Hugh Padfield, a director of the Bath Soft Cheese Company, this time people continue to buy basic products at the cheapest price, and spend the money they save on products that are better quality, like his own renowned Bath Blue cheese.

2008年后,人们开始在相对更便宜的超市购物,比如阿尔迪超市和利德超市。并且还开始大量网购。一家浴软奶酪的董事,休.帕德菲尔德说,与之前经济萧条时期不同的是,这次,人们虽然还是继续购买价钱便宜的基本必需品,但却用省下的钱购买质量较好的产品,比如他们公司的明星产品蓝浴奶酪。

This sort of “promiscuous shopping”, as the analysts call it, is replacing the traditional once-a-week trip to an out-of-town Tesco or Sainsbury’s. Those retailers are therefore being squeezed by Aldi and Lidl undercutting them and the farm shops taking business away at the top end, albeit still on a modest scale. Small producers like Mr Padfield are doing very nicely; he has tripled his turnover in just five years, to £750,000, and will struggle to meet all his orders for Christmas. Ms Robertshaw says her prices are not more expensive than those of the supermarkets, putting her produce within range of most shoppers.

分析家称此为“混合型消费”,它取代了传统的每周一次去镇外的乐购或塞恩斯伯里进行大采购的行为。因此那些大型超市零售业的市场份额被阿尔迪和利德挤压,农贸商店则抢占了最上层的份额,尽管份额并不庞大。像帕德菲尔德那样的小型企业发展势头良好;五年内营业额翻了三番,达到75万欧元,今年圣诞,他的产品将面临供不应求。罗伯特肖恩说她商店里的产品价格不比超市里的贵多少,在大多数顾客能接受的范围里。

Another essential ingredient in the success of the small producers is the increasing demand for locally sourced food. After various scandals in Britain’s food production, from “mad-cow disease” to the discovery of horse meat in some products, consumers are much more concerned to know where their food comes from, and how it was produced.

小型生产商成功的另一个因素是人们对本地生产的食品不断增加的需求。从“疯牛病”牛肉,到许多肉制品中发现马肉成分,英国发生的多起食品丑闻让消费者们更关心食品来源以及生产方式。

Farm shops and delis thus stress the local content of their food in a way that supermarkets, with their central distributions systems, usually cannot. “Provenance is really important now,” says Asad Khan, who has recently set up a luxury ice-cream business in London, called Snowflake. The fact that his gelati are all made of the best quality British milk and are prepared in the store is a large part of Snowflake’s appeal. Mr Khan has seen his turnover more than double in two years of business. He even sells pricey tubs of ice-cream that customers would previously have bought only from a supermarket.

通过集中分配系统配货的超市无法媲美农贸商店和熟食店供应的食品。“如今,食品来源非常重要”,阿萨德.柯寒说,他最近在伦敦开了一家奢华的冰激凌店,名叫雪花。店里的意大利胶凝冰糕全部采用最好的英国奶品并在店内加工,这是雪花吸引顾客的很大原因。柯寒的这家店营业额在两年内翻了一番。店内还出售价格高昂的桶装冰激凌。想当初,人们只会从超市购买这种桶装冰激凌。

From the print edition: Britain
remark: 本月,英国最大的连锁超市——乐购的投资商们要是对着自己的圣诞布丁抹眼泪也情有可原。12月9日,乐购发布了五个月内的第四次利润警告,将全年的贸易预测减少了近1/3。股票再次暴跌,顾客曾经钟爱光顾的这所连锁店家今年很不景气,而它的那些超市竞争对手们日子也都不好过
2/一些分析师曾经预测,这些迅速发展的小型食品饮料公司会因2008年的金融困境而受创。家庭家用的减少势必会让本地市场上那些美味的熟食产品最先成为牺牲品,但实际情况却恰恰相反。农贸产业非但存活了下来,并且不断壮大,一部分原因是由于人们的购物习惯在这同一场金融危机中也改变了
3/ 通过集中分配系统配货的超市无法媲美农贸商店和熟食店供应的食品。“如今,食品来源非常重要”,阿萨德.柯寒说,他最近在伦敦开了一家奢华的冰激凌店,名叫雪花。店里的意大利胶凝冰糕全部采用最好的英国奶品并在店内加工,这是雪花吸引顾客的很大原因
4/ 分析家称此为“混合型消费”,它取代了传统的每周一次去镇外的乐购或塞恩斯伯里进行大采购的行为。因此那些大型超市零售业的市场份额被阿尔迪和利德挤压,农贸商店则抢占了最上层的份额,尽管份额并不庞大。像帕德菲尔德那样的小型企业发展势头良好;五年内营业额翻了三番,达到75万欧元
5/ 布莱德福德郊区的克尔汉姆农贸商店却生意兴隆。店内有红酒和各种美食,合伙人维多利亚.罗伯特肖恩为商店又一年的红火生意而庆祝,并为来年制定计划。克尔汉姆农贸商店成立于70年代初期,是英国最早的农贸商店之一,销售肉类,蔬菜还有其他种类的农贸产品,都是从家庭农场或其他当地直供品

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