For Brazilians, football is not so much the national game, more the stuff of life. And now they are preparing to host the World Cup. In our photo essay, CHRISTOPHER PILLITZ captures a society at play. MICHAEL REID sets the scene
对于巴西人来说,足球不仅国球,更是生活。他们正在为主办世界杯而忙碌。在本期的《图片故事》中,摄影师CHRISTOPHER PILLITZ捕捉到的是一个活在足球中的社会。场记:MICHAEL REID
From Intelligent Life magazine, March/April 2014
At five o'clock on Thursday June 12th, if all goes to plan, a whistle will blow in São Paulo and the 20th World Cup will begin. It will be hard to hear, because no fans in the world are as passionately noisy as Brazil's. They see it almost as a right that their team, the seleção in their famous canary-yellow shirts, will emerge a month later as the winners. For them, this is not just a football tournament, but an opportunity to exorcise a ghost from the national psyche.
不出意外的话,第20届世界杯足球赛的开场哨将于6月12日星期四下午五点在圣保罗吹响。鉴于巴西球迷的狂热举世无敌,这一哨声将难以听到。在他们看来,著名的“黄衣军团”肯定将在一个月后成为赢家。对他们来说,世界杯不仅是一场足球盛会,更是一次祛除国民心理阴影的好机会。
The World Cup has been held in Brazil only once before, in 1950, and it turned into a national humiliation. On paper Brazil had the best team in the world. The government rose to the big occasion by building the Maracanã stadium in Rio, in two years flat. Brazil duly reached the final, where they faced Uruguay in front of an estimated 200,000 spectators, a world record. But the unthinkable happened: after Brazil had taken the lead, Uruguay stole two late goals. An anthropologist, Roberto DaMatta, described it as “perhaps the greatest tragedy in contemporary Brazilian history”.
巴西仅在1950年主办过一次世界杯,而那届世界杯却成为了这个国家的奇耻大辱。从理论上讲,当时的巴西拥有世界上最好的球队,政府也用在短短两年中建成里约马拉卡纳大球场的行动把那届世界杯提升到一个前所未有的高度。巴西队如期进入了决赛,对手是乌拉圭队。到场观看比赛的观众多达创纪录的200000人。但是,不可想象的事情发生了:在巴西队首先攻入一球后,乌拉圭队利用反击,在比赛的最后阶段打入两球。人类学家Roberto DaMatta在描述这一事件时称,那“可能是巴西当代史上的最大悲剧”。
In a country that suffered dictatorship and hyperinflation a few decades ago, you might think this was an exaggeration. Yet many Brazilians would agree. Not for nothing does Brazil like to call itself o país de futebol—the football country. If France expresses itself through cuisine and Italy through art, Brazil does so by kicking a ball. Of course there is much more to it than sport: the world's seventh-largest economy, a powerhouse of energy and agribusiness, a vibrant democracy that has lifted tens of millions out of poverty. But it is on the pitch that this nation lives out its qualities and its defects. No Brazilian has ever won a Nobel prize, but their footballers have won the World Cup five times—more than any other country.
在外人看来,这或许是一种夸张的说法,因为这个国家毕竟在几十年前还在忍受着独裁统治和超级通货膨胀的折磨。但是,对于众多的巴西人来说,他们完全同意这个观点。其原因不仅仅是因为巴西人喜欢把自己的国家称之为“足球王国”,更因为他们是在通过踢球来展示自己,这就如同法国人通过烹饪、意大利人通过艺术来让别人了解自己一样。当然了,这其中还有着远超体育运动本身的含义:作为世界上第七大经济体,巴西即是一个能源大国,也是一个农业强国,其充满活力民主制度已经带领数千万人走出了贫困。但这是一个只有在绿茵场上才能活得像样的国家:他们从未拿过诺贝尔奖,但曾五次捧走世界杯——超过了世界上任何一个国家。
Along with carnival, soap operas and Portuguese, football has helped to knit a vast country of 200m people into a remarkably seamless nation. It exemplifies Brazilians' flair for teamwork, which has also been noted by management theorists. It is played everywhere and by almost every male and increasing numbers of women. Walk along any beach, or through any park, and you see dozens of games in progress, some highly organised, others just impromptu kickabouts. As this photo essay shows, Brazilians need only a courtyard in a favela, an empty flyover or a clearing in the forest to create a Maracanã of the imagination.
除了狂欢节、肥皂剧和葡萄牙语之外,能将这个2亿人口的大国联结在一起的就只有足球了。足球体现着巴西人的团队合作天赋,同时也是为管理专家所推崇的。在这里,处处皆可踢球,人人都在踢球,不仅男人,就连踢球的妇女人数也在增加。不管是行走在海滩上,还是在公园中,你总能看到数十场比赛正在进行,有的组织严密,有的就是为了即兴地踢上两脚。正如我们本期《图片故事》所示,巴西人需要的只是贫民窟中的一个小院,一条已被清空的城市高架路,或是热带雨林中的一处空地,它们都能够成为巴西人想象中的马拉卡纳球场。
Football arrived in 1894 when Charles Miller, the son of an expatriate Scottish railway engineer, disembarked in Santos carrying two balls. Unknown in Britain, Miller is a household name in Brazil, commemorated in statues and street names. Brazilians swiftly took to the sport. At their best—the national teams that won the 1958 and 1962 World Cups and Pelé's all-conquering Santos FC—they turned football into an art form, o jogo bonito (the beautiful game). Gilberto Freyre, an anthropologist and historian, thought that Brazilians played football as “if it was a dance”.
是查尔斯·米勒把足球带到了巴西。当这位被流放的苏格兰铁路工程师的儿子于1894年在桑托斯上岸时,他随身带着两个足球。从此,在英国默默无闻的米勒就成了巴西家喻户晓的人物。他的形象被制成雕塑,他的名字成为许多街道的名称。巴西人很快就接受了这项运动。在巅峰时期,他们曾分别在1958年和1962年两夺世界杯。贝利所在的桑托斯队也是打遍天下无对手。他们把足球变成了一门艺术,一种被称为jogo bonito的美的运动。人类学家兼历史学家的Gilberto Freyre指出,巴西人是把足球“当成一种舞蹈”来踢的。
Freyre put this down to the influence of Africa. It was not by chance that Brazil began to win when black and brown-skinned players such as Pelé and Garrincha, the bow-legged winger born in poverty, became a majority in the seleção. In a country more scarred by slavery than any other (with the possible exception of Cuba), football is one of the great levellers, a route to overcome inequality. It is played with great verve by Amerindian tribes, as Alex Bellos shows in “Futebol”, his brilliant book on the Brazilian way of life.
Freyre将之归结为非洲情结。当像贝利和出身贫寒的罗圈腿边锋加林查这样黑皮肤和棕色皮肤的球员挑起国家队大梁之时,也是巴西队开始称霸世界足坛之日,这不是偶然的。在这个除了古巴之外可能是受奴隶制伤害最深的国家中,足球是各种各样的伟大平衡器中的一种,是摆脱受歧视地位的一条路径。正如亚历克斯·贝洛斯在那本讲述巴西人生活方式的精彩之作《足球》中所言,美洲印第安人是带着极大的热情来踢球的。
During the Confederations Cup, the dress rehearsal held a year before the World Cup, football became a flashpoint of public discontent, which is rare in Brazil. The budget for the 12 stadiums stands at over $3.5 billion and counting—three times more than South Africa spent on hosting the 2010 World Cup. The stadiums have been built to the exacting requirements of FIFA, football's governing body. Protesters, angry that politicians have paid less heed to their demands for better public services, held up placards demanding “FIFA-standard” hospitals and schools.
然而,在去年的联合会杯(通常在世界杯赛前一年举行)期间,足球却罕见地成为了民众不满的导火索。12座世界杯比赛球场的预算超过35亿美元,并且还在不断增加,比2010年南非世界杯多出了3倍以上。这些球场一直都在严格地按照国际足联的要求在建造。抗议者不满政客忽视民众要求得到更好的公共服务的要求,他们在举着的标语牌上写上了要求建造符合“国际足联标准”的医院和学校的呼吁。
Some lament that the World Cup will accelerate the gentrification of the national game, pricing many fans out of the stands. Others are confident that it will give the sport an upgrade in accord with Brazil's claim to be a rising power in the world. Despite its blemishes, football has, as DaMatta wrote in the 1980s, provided “a confidence in ourselves that no other institution has given Brazil to the same extent”. Brazil has come far since then. Its leaders now have their eye on a permanent seat at the UN Security Council. For most Brazilians, that prize comes a distant second to regaining the World Cup.
为之哀叹者认为,世界杯将加快巴西国球的士绅化进程,将越来越多的球迷排除在外;在自信者看来,随着巴西国际地位的提高,这项运动也会因之而更加普及。正如DaMatta在上世纪80年代所言,尽管足球是一项不尽完美的运动,但她始终都在给这个国家提供着“其他任何机构都不能给与巴西的那种自信”。自那时起,巴西一路走来。如今,该国的领导人又把目光对准了成为安理会常任理事国上面。但是,对于大多数巴西人来说,那只是排在第二位的奖赏,是远远不能同第六次赢得世界杯相提并论的。
Pictured: ROCINHA, RIO DE JANEIRO
“This is the largest and oldest favela in Rio. About 150,000 people live in a horseshoe that wraps around the mountain, and every green space has been overtaken by brick shacks. There are, at best, four or five of these spaces where people can play football. I found that the word ‘football’ was a magic passport to get access. I managed to find a roof-top vantage point to photograph these boys, who all live near this little pitch, having a kickaround one evening. There isn't much else for them to do”
这是里约热内卢面积最大,时间最久的贫民窟。它环山而建,大约住着15万人,凡是有绿地的地方都被简陋的砖瓦房所占据。好在其间至少还有四、五块可供踢球的空地。我发现,在这里,“足球”二字就如同一张特殊通行证一般,拿着她可以四处通行。那天晚上,我好不容易才在一处房顶上找到了拍摄这张照片的角度。照片中的孩子全都在住在附近。如今,可供他们踢球的地方已经不多了。
Pictured: NEAR THE MARACANÃ STADIUM, RIO DE JANEIRO
“This wall, a five-minute drive from the Maracanã, is dedicated to some of the greatest names in Brazilian football, all painted very artfully against the yellow and green of the national strip. Zico is on the left, Pelé in the middle and, on the right, with his famous bow legs, is Garrincha, a team-mate of Pelé's and one of the greatest dribblers in history”
这是离马拉卡纳大球场只有五分钟的车程的一面墙。在黄绿相间的巴西国旗的映衬下,栩栩如生地再现了西足球史上一些最伟大球星。左边的是济科,中间的是贝利,贝利右边的是他的队友,史上最著名的盘球专家之一的罗圈腿边锋加林查。
Pictured: TAVARES BASTOS, RIO DE JANEIRO
“This favela used to be a dangerous drug den, but it's safer nowadays and very close to the training ground of Brazil's elite police force, like the SWAT team in the United States. The kids play on this tiny pitch, surrounded by slum houses. I was on the pitch for this picture, running along with the players. I'm not a good footballer, so I'd always try to keep clear of the action. Otherwise I'd make a complete fool of myself”
这出贫民窟过去曾是一个危险的毒品窝点,但如今已经安全多了,它的旁边就是类似于美国SWAT的巴西特警队的训练基地。孩子们在这块狭小的空地上踢球,周围是破烂不堪的房子。我是在与他们一起在这块空地上奔跑时拍下这张照片的。我的球技不怎么样,因此总是避免在照片中出现踢球的动作。否则,那会显得我非常没有水平。
Pictured: NITERÓI BEACH
"Just before nightfall I came across this boy and his uncle, and I thought their movement captured the joie de vivre of football in Brazil. It's about letting rip. I chose this location carefully. On the left, behind the boy, is Sugar Loaf Mountain. Next to his uncle's chest you can just see Christ the Redeemer. On the far right is Oscar Niemeyer's Museum of Modern Art, like a flying saucer on the hill. I wanted to put football in the context of these great emblems of Rio"
我是在太阳就要落山的时候,偶然间看到这个男孩和他的叔叔的。在我看来,这一刻正好体现了巴西足球的精髓:自由自在,尽情发挥。画面的背景是我精心选择的:左边,位于孩子身后的就是“甜面包山”;紧挨着他叔叔胸部的是著名的里约基督像;最右边,那个像飞碟一样的山中建筑是奥斯卡·尼迈耶当代艺术博物馆。当时,我曾想以里约这些伟大象征为背景,把足球放在前景中。
Pictured: MARREY PRISON, SÃO PAULO
“Most of these inmates are in prison for drug-dealing or drug-trafficking. Some are in for murder. I had to go through the judiciary to get in, and then had to go through seven layers of security. I was watched very closely, and had to show them all the material I shot before I left, image by image. Football is the most important part of these prisoners' lives. If they break the rules, football is the first thing that's taken away. The inmates have a self-organised league, and they are brilliant players. The leg in the foreground is tattooed with the insignia of Corinthians, one of the hardest clubs in São Paulo”
关在这所监狱中的犯人大都因毒品走私或者买卖毒品而入狱,有些是因为谋杀罪而入狱。我是在得到了司法部门的允许后才被允许进入到这里的,其间曾经历了七道安检。我的一举一动都处在严密地监视之下,并且还在离开时把我拍摄的每一张照片交给狱方进行检查。在这里,足球是犯人生活中最重要的一个组成部分。要是谁违反了监狱条例,第一个被剥夺的就是踢球的权利。犯人们自发地组织了一个联赛,他们之中有许多不错的球员。前景中的那条腿上的纹身是圣保罗地区最有实力的球队之一——科林蒂安队的队徽。
Pictured: SANTO TOMÁS DE VILANOVA SEMINARY, OURINHOS
"This seminary is about 400km west of Sao Paulo. The priests were playing in their robes against student seminarians. It didn't inhibit them: they won hands down. I was running with them on the pitch. I could barely keep up"
这是圣保罗以西400公里的一个神学院中进行的一场比赛,对阵的双方是牧师和学生。虽说牧师们是身着黑袍上场比赛的,但这并没有妨碍他们轻松取胜。当时,我正在场地中同他们一起奔跑。我差点就没有跟上他们。
Pictured: GAVIOES DA FIEL HEADQUARTERS, SÃO PAULO
"Corinthians have an extreme, often thuggish fan club called Gaviões da Fiel, and this man is a member. I wanted to shoot his Corinthians tattoos. Suddenly, without me asking, he pulled out his rosary beads and got into this prayer position. Just below his hands there's a disc. Normally it would hold an image of Jesus or the Virgin Mary, but his shows the coat of arms of Corinthians—which is also tattooed on his scalp. Some of his cronies began taking the mickey out of him for being effeminate. He got angry and cut the photo session short. Then a mate of his turned up all bruised and beaten up. He'd been in a street fight with rival fans"
照片上的这个人来自科林蒂安队的Gaviões da Fiel球迷俱乐部。Gaviões da Fiel是一个非常狂热,并且时常有打架斗殴之举的球迷俱乐部。我本来是准备拍摄他身上的科林蒂安队纹身。谁知,他在未询问我的情况下,突然拿出念珠,摆出了这个祈祷的姿势。请大家注意他手中那串念珠正下方的那个小圆环,在正常的情况下,圆环里面应该是耶稣或者圣母的雕像。但如今,那里面却是同他的纹身一模一样的科林蒂安队队徽的纪念章。在看到他摆出这个姿势后,旁边的一些球友开始拿他寻开心,说他是在故意地装出一副温顺的样子。结果,这位球迷一怒之下,就不再让我拍照了。随后,他的一个球友走上前来,指着他身上的伤疤对我说,他刚刚还在街上同别的球迷打过一仗。
Pictured: DOWNTOWN SÃO PAULO
"I was trying to get a shot of the Sao Paulo skyline, which is famous for its skyscrapers. And then, about 200 metres away, I saw these young men playing football on top of an office building. It's at least 30 storeys high. I was gobsmacked. It justs shows the lengths people go to play football. They've got to be very dextrous not to lose their ball"
当时我正在设法拍摄著名的以摩天大楼而闻名的圣保罗摩天际线。突然,我看见在离我大约200米远的一座写字楼的楼顶上,有一群年轻人正在踢球。那座写字楼少说也有30层。看到这一幕,我惊得一句话也说不出来。这不是正好能表现巴西人球技高超画面吗。要知道,在那种地方踢球,要是没有两下子的话,球是很容易被踢到楼下去的。
Pictured: THE MINHOCÃO, SÃO PAULO
“The Minhocão is a raised highway that runs through the heart of São Paulo. It was built in the 1960s to ease congestion on the roads. Because the city has very little open space, on Sundays the local authorities close it to traffic so people can walk or play football. They close it at night as well to allow people living in the buildings nearby to sleep. But even then people take a ball onto the road”
Minhocão是在上世纪60年代为缓和交通拥挤而建造的一条横穿圣保罗市中心的高架路。由于圣保罗市内几乎没有空地,因此每到周日,市政府都会关闭这条高架路,让人们可以在上面行走或是踢球。除此之外,为了让住在附近建筑的人们能够睡个好觉,这条高架路也会在夜间被关闭。但是,即便是那时,也有人会拿了球,到上面去踢上两脚。
Pictured: SÃO MATEUS, SÃO PAULO
“This scrapyard was packed with cars piled on top of one another, but there was this small space where these men—who all worked in the yard—could lay some tyres for goalposts and have a kickabout, or pelada. I was perched precariously on a stack of cars above them”
这是一个堆满了汽车的废品回收站。但是,就算是在这种情况下,这些人——他们都在附近工作——也会找到一小块空地,摆上轮胎当球门,踢上一两脚。当时,我正小心翼翼地站在一堆汽车上面。
Pictured: PARANAPIACABA, AN HOUR FROM SÃO PAULO
“One of Brazil's first clubs was formed here. The British railway workers who built the village in the 19th century brought football with them. There's not much to do but kick a ball around. The women play as much as the men, and they play hard. They are working-class, but because they take football very seriously they play in expensive shoes. They think of their shoes like someone might think of a Rolex or a BMW”
这里是离圣保罗一个小时车程的巴拉纳比亚卡巴。在巴西最早成立的那批俱乐部中,有一支就是在这里诞生的。19世纪建造起这个村庄的英国铁路工人也带来了足球。那时,他们没有太多的活可干,。这里的妇女同男人一样喜欢踢球,她们踢起球来很卖力。这些妇女都是工薪阶层,但是,由于她们把足球看得非常重要,因此常常会穿着很贵的球鞋踢球。在她们看来,球鞋就如同别人眼中的劳斯莱斯或者宝马一样。
Pictured: NOVA IGUAÇÚ, RIO DE JANEIRO
“The 1998 World Cup. This fan went to a Candomblé priestess, asking her to bless the team. Candomblé is an animist religion from west Africa. In the background there is animist iconography, Catholic statuary, drums and images of St George, even a picture of a mermaid leaning against the altar. A complete melange. The prayers weren't answered: France beat Brazil 3–0 in the final”
这是1998年世界杯时拍摄的一张照片。照片中的这位球迷正在一位Candomblé女祭司身前为巴西队祈祷。Candomblé 是一种源自西非的泛灵论宗教。背景中除了Candomblé 的神像外,还有天主教的塑像,鼓和圣乔治的画像,甚至还有一张画着靠在祭坛上的美人鱼的图画。这是绝对的混搭。祈祷者没有得到女祭司的回答。因为,在那届世界杯的决赛中,巴西队以0:3败给了法国队。
【译注】楼顶踢球和高架路上踢球这两张片子戳到泪点。中国足球沉沦,光靠领导人是球迷或者红顶商人投入巨资是上不去的。看看巴西人是怎么对待足球的吧。究其原因,就是把体育当成政治,让原本是生活的异化了。
图3:这处贫民窟曾是一个危险的毒品窝点,但如今已安全多了,它的旁边就是类似于美国SWAT的巴西特警队训练基地。孩子们在这块狭小的空地上踢球,周围是破烂不堪的房子。我是在与他们一起在这块空地上奔跑时拍下这张照片的。我的球技不怎么样,因此总是避免在照片中出现踢球的动作。否则我会显得很逊的
图2:这是离马拉卡纳大球场只有五分钟的车程的一面墙。在黄绿相间的巴西国旗的映衬下,栩栩如生地再现了西足球史上一些最伟大球星。左边的是济科,中间的是贝利,贝利右边的是他的队友,史上最著名的盘球专家之一的罗圈腿边锋加林查
图1:这是里约热内卢面积最大,时间最久的贫民窟。它环山而建,大约住着15万人,凡是有绿地的地方都被简陋的砖瓦房所占据。我发现,在这里,“足球”二字就如同一张特殊通行证一般,拿着她可以四处通行。晚上我好不容易才在一处房顶上找到了拍摄这张照片的角度。照片中的孩子全都在住在附近
图4:我在太阳快落山时,偶然看到这个男孩和他的叔叔。在我看来,这一刻正好体现了巴西足球的精髓:自由自在,尽情发挥。画面的背景是我精心选择的:左边,位于孩子身后的就是“甜面包山”;紧挨着他叔叔胸部的是著名的里约基督像;最右边,那个像飞碟一样的山中建筑是奥斯卡·尼迈耶当代艺术博物馆
图5:关在这所监狱中的犯人大都因毒品走私或者买卖毒品而入狱,有些是因为谋杀罪而入狱。我的一举一动都处在严密地监视之下,并且还在离开时把我拍摄的每一张照片交给狱方进行检查。在这里,足球是犯人生活中最重要的一个组成部分。要是谁违反了监狱条例,第一个被剥夺的就是踢球的权利
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